Last Post

I've been home for a few weeks, flat out getting caught up as well as spending time with overseas visitors, and can now breath a bit easier (until the thought Christmas isn't far away arises).  The van is nearly unpacked (not important, not urgent task), thus I haven't started doing the things I want to it.

Looking back on the travels, it all went well!  10,900 kilometres were covered, and most of this only in the lower half of Queensland - this is a big, open country once you get away from the coast and big cities!   The trip home was a straight run from Brisbane to Tasmania (Lanceston) and that was 1,740 kilometres, requiring 202 litres of petrol at a cost of $291.77, with one night only in a caravan park at a cost of $17.  Fuel for the entire trip was 1208 litres, costing $1,771, for an average consumption of 11.36 L/100Km (24.9 miles/Imp.Gallon).

Has it been successful?  My word it has!  It is a unique lifestyle and while a lot of different types of people are wandering about out there in a great variety of rigs, they generally agree it is the freedom that attracts them most.  There was Kev, with a caravan and ute, which represented his major assets after a particularly unpleasant divorce late in life:  He said he could probably get a housing commission unit somewhere, but preferred the freedom of the road - he often had to stay for periods in a long term free park area to save enough money to continue traveling.  There was an elderly lady on her own in a campervan slightly larger than mine (remember, mine is very basic) which gave her just enough room to have a shower & toilet; she'd been traveling for years, for the main reason, apparently, that if she were at home she was overly imposed on by her children and grandchildren! 

Then there are retired or semi-retired people who can take extended trips but return home for part of the year.  One couple from rural Queensland had a farm, left it in their son's capable hands for long periods and hitched their sizable van to their 4WD, setting off for pleasant settings where they enjoy the very relaxed lifestyle, meet lots of different people and swap stories.  They are also full of advice from their wealth of experience but at the same time always looking for new ideas and better ways to do things. 

One couple had a large converted bus pulling a medium sized caravan; they'd (he?) gutted the caravan & turned it into a workshop.  They would do repairs, make craft items for sale at markets and they go where the spirit takes them.  There are many people with larger units they live in and their intention is to live on the road for as long as they can:  Given you could spend nearly a lifetime and not see all of this country, they do intend spending the rest of their life trying.  One chap I met, very helpful and obliging when I needed my starting battery charged, informed me that after he fitted out the large Mercedes bus for living in, he and his wife went on a trial run:  On returning home, he started planning his next trip, whereupon his wife informed him she wasn't going traveling anymore, "...so I found a woman who would..",  he informed me! 

There are numerous free camps, reduced price camping, E.g. in showgrounds in some towns and caravan parks throughout the country.  Thus, traveling is very flexible and well accommodated at various rates, according to your affordability or comfort level.  As for my preference, I like free camping as much from an affordability point of view as well as my preference for my philosophy that camping is roughing it to some extent (reduced 'roughing' with increasing age). 

In choosing my 'unit', I opted for maximum flexibility but reduced comforts (bearing in mind some units have all the comforts of home).  The small vehicle means I can get into nearly all carparks and when finished 'nomading', I can keep it for a runabout vehicle for daily use, it can get me to Brisbane economically (with cargo!),  plus have the odd gettaway to the lakes, seaside or??  The main limitations are once set up you have to pack up again to go anywhere (I.e. if you run out of coffee and have to run to a shop to get more), lack of off road capability but at my age I'd rather not - or go on a tour - and limited space.  Any unit is a compromise, with many factors to consider depending on your preferences; I'm happy with my choice.

As for the future, I intend returning to Brisbane in February 2012 and setting off for the Top End from there when it starts to cool off to do The Big Lap around Australia.  Meanwhile at home, I've put a few thousand Km on the car with overseas guests (great time, they've now returned home), Christmas with the family, getting the van ready for the next trip, a pleasure cruise on a motor yacht around Tassie's East Coast and - in my 'spare time' - weeding weeding weeding. 

So I will close this blog with this entry:  I intend starting a new one for The Big Lap.  Thanks to all who have been following, it has been interesting to note the location of some followers, including Alaska - if that's you, Mike, I'd love to hear what you've been up to since the Uhlmann days. 

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!

Homeward bound

After leaving Brisbane Sunday 5th Nov at 0615, I had an excellent run out of Brisbane and thus made good time during the day.  I camped at a freecamp just south of Moree in NSW, a distance of 520Km traveled during the day.  The day was quite warm (for me, anyway, at 29 degrees C) and part of the night as well but it cooled off before morning. 

Today (day 2) a distance of 556Km was traveled and I'm camped on Bland Creek, north of West Wyalong.  There were some impressive views so I took a couple of photos to post.  The area passed through is mainly farmland, growing wheat, cotton and I saw some paddocks of corn as well.  On some paddocks harvesters were getting the wheat crop in.

Tomorrow I'll continue to the spot on the Murray River where I spent my first night after crossing Bass Straight in July.  From there, it's through Shepparton (to stock up on canned fruit and other goodies at the SPC Ardmona Outlet to take back to Tassie) and on to the ferry in Melbourne for crossing to Tasmania Tuesday evening.  On arrival, a quick stop in Launceston and on to Hobart and home.

Being able to freecamp has really made this whole trip possible.  I was talking to a couple from WA last night and they were saying there is pressure on from caravan park owners in some areas to close off freecamp sites.  Many campers I talked to said if they couldn't freecamp they wouldn't travel; besides the cost they also like the freedom.  One aim of this trip was to determine the feasibility of freecamping and getting the van set up for it-that has proven successful, so in 2012 I am hoping to "Do the Loop" around Australia.  We shall see.

Last day

Kingaroy

A dynamic centre in a fertile area.  Peanuts are what it is most noted for but the area supplies a large percentage of the nation's beans also.  The soil is rich red and rainfall is reliable and sufficient; it is green and the pastures well kept. 

The local museum is interesting, with emphasis on peanut farming but also other interesting items & historical information on the development of the area.  Peanuts, of course, are amazing and something dear to my heart with memories going back to the tin 5lb pails of peanut butter that were the mainstay of my youth.  Many times - to Mum's dismay - I'd come racing in from some "very important boy business", ask when lunch/dinner was going to be ready, and any period longer than four minutes resulted in quickly making a peanut butter and jam sandwich before racing out the door to get back to 'business'. 

Free Camping

From here, the plan is to free camp for one or two nights at various spots, working my way to Little Yabba Creek, where I'll camp for 4-5 days.  This is to test suitability for free camping in various circumstances and periods (I.e., how long can I stay on the road away from 240V).   "Free Camps" are generally clear relatively flat areas where you can camp at no cost.  Amenities are basic but most have a toilet.  They may also have water, showers (pay or donation), picnic tables, BBQ's and rarely power,  but not necessarily so you have to be reasonably self contained.  Most are pleasant natural settings and well maintained.  Some also have time limits, from 20 - 48 hours, as they are maintained "for the convenience of the traveling public":  This insures better turnover prospects for local business as well as avoiding  permanent camps.  It is a great system as most people I have talked to state they could not afford to travel if they had to pay for a caravan park every night. 

On leaving Kingaroy I camped at Wooroolin Rest Area, which is next to a disused rail and wheat shed, with a large dam just beyond.  Very peaceful, but again, a town much reduced from what it was.  The thought occurred regarding rail - when the trains no longer run, there would be an affect on goods brought in, perhaps increasing isolation by removing a means of transport for locals and other implications suddenly absent and thus decreasing quality of life. 

From there I spent two nights at Kinbombi Falls, a popular spot near a rugged gorge and waterfall.  There are good tracks down into the gorge at a couple of spots and on one trip a wild dog/dingo was seen running off through the scrub.

The next stop, First Settlers Park at Benarkin, again a much reduced town by an abandoned rail line.  Large trucks kept a busy stream into a nearby area and initially I thought it must have been a mine but found out on traveling on the next day that a large undertaking to widen a steep and bendy portion of the highway resulted in the removal of a huge amount of earth.  

My next planned stop was closed so I continued on to Little Yabba Creek, near Kenilworth, arriving Wed 12th October:  My planned stay of 4 nights will actually be 6 nights.  This is my final stop before going to Mooloolaba and thence to Brisbane.  Bevin and Kath were parked nearby, friendly, interesting and a good sense of humour.  Bevin also showed me how to fold the shower tent, a frustrating task if you don't know the 'secret twist of the wrist'.  They had a gas bottle stove, not nearly as complex as the Boulder Creek chap but serves their purposes well:  Another nearby camper had his version, which he used mainly as a firepot and we sat around it one evening discussing this life on the road. 

My stay here is planned to test the sufficiency or otherwise of the electricity storage & replenishment to determine how long I can free camp away from 240V.  In short, it appears to do well, depending on sunlight of course.  We've had overcast times as well as a few thundershowers but the sun was out enough to keep things up:  The weather forecasting has been unreliable, as today is a prime example where a fine day was forecast and it is raining.  A pleasing result, as a lot of thought went into two 105AH batteries, a 100W solar panel, a few bits of wire & a few Anderson plugs, but as I stated earlier, the learning curve is high and the critical factors need to be known (I have a great fear of what I do not know, especially when about to shell out a few hundred for a single battery/solar panel/regulator) as mistakes can be very expensive.

I needed to run into Kenilworth for supplies, a hassle as things need securing for the run and then set up for camping on return:  A hassle I knew I'd face at some stage but 'traded off' when deciding to purchase this type of camping unit.  The main worry is security of things left, as well as having the campsite taken over, rather slim odds, but one is known to be a bit paranoid.

While here I also tested the shower tent and solar water heater and am reassured with the result.  A recently purchased small kettle BBQ was also tested.  The first lot of charcoal proved a disaster (I think it had sand mixed with it to 'bulk' it up and wouldn't burn well), another lot has proven successful.  Like anything new it needs a bit of trial and error to get decent results.

Today is Monday and I will catch up on my notes etc. so I can head to an area where there is phone coverage and manage my email, blog and whatever else turns up.  Hopefully it will be dry, as I will pack up my awning & toilet tent in preparation for an early getaway tomorrow morn, 18th Oct.

Thus draws a close to my introduction to Grey Nomadism, as I will stay in Brisbane until the dash back to Tasmania.  It has been a good project, challenge and experience.  This is a large and diverse country with so much to see and learn.  A lucky market 'find' was the book "Heroes of the Outback", a compilation of three books - biographies I believe -  by Ion Idriess.  After reading it, I am more determined to continue my plans to travel around and through Australia.

Bush Turkeys (no, not the released clowns, but a bustard native to Australia)

One bird clearly visible in the Bunya Mountains National Park is the bush turkey.  The males rake up a huge mound of litter to attract females, who then lay their eggs in it and clear out.  The litter composts, forming heat to incubate the eggs, with the male guarding over them and also adjusting the litter over the eggs to keep them at the right temperature.  There are numerous mounds to be seen, most of them seemingly abandoned, but one had a male in attendance, dutifully raking litter from a broad area by the size of the mound - close to three metres high!  He was so intent on his work he walked (raked?) to within a metre of me:  Of course, he could have just wanted his photo taken, for I took a few of him close up, then he raced up the top of his mound and posed for more!  So I ran some prints off, stuck them on trees within a kilometre radius, "Handsome male with large mound seeks fecund females".

BunyaMountains National Park

This Park is in the Bunya Mountains and is the largest stand of Bunya Pines in Australia.  Bunya pines, Araucaria bidwillii are a remnant of the Age of Dinosaurs and not a true pine at all.  They grow quite large and at one time were logged as a commercial timber, however, most of the remaining trees are now in reserves.  This National Park dates back to 1908, with subsequent additions increasing the size from it's original 9,112 ha. to 19,493 ha. today. 

"From December to March, bunya pines drop cones containing edible 'nuts'.  For countless generations, large groups of Aboriginal people gathered at the Bunya Mountains to take part in what today are known as the bunya festivals, coinciding with this natural event."

 "Custodians of the Bunya Mountains and Blackall Ranges (nearer the coast) invited people from as far south as Clarence River in northern NSW, west to the Maranoa River and east to Wide Bay to join such gatherings.  For local and visiting groups, bunya festivals were a time for ceremonies, settling disputes, renewing friendships, passing on lore, sharing ideas and revitalizing spirituality." (Nat'l Park brochure)

The area was recognised for it's natural beauty by European settlers as far back as the 1860's.  It's mountains are covered in a variety for forests and natural meadows, there are expansive views and it is generally cooler in summer.  The rainforest is very pleasant to walk thru, being relatively open due to the high canopy, contains a diverse flora, including many epiphytes - many of them orchids - living solely in the canopy of the trees.  There are excellent walking tracks taking one thru the Bunya Mountains which go thru the range of forests - rainforest, grass tree forests and eucalypt forest - as well as some of the natural meadows and other features such as creeks and waterfalls.  There are plenty of birds, as evidenced by the constant chorus of birdsong, however most are shy and if seen at all only fleeting glimpses as they flit through the low scrub.  One notable exception is the bush turkey - they seemed so engrossed in building their mound that they would hardly notice you unless you were very close (one or two metres).  Full compliments to the Queensland Park Rangers for such excellent work.  

Covering all bases of threats to both plant and animal, Mother Nature included stinging nettle, a stinging tree - capable of reaching great size - and plenty of ticks; probably on the theory of 'what doesn't kill us makes us stronger'.  Thus, amidst such beauty one must not be too complacent.

Natural meadows, called 'balds', give a good view from the range out to the broad flat land surrounding it.  The balds are natural and a unique ecosystem, requiring management to keep them as such.  They were most likely burned regularly by Aborigines and if protected from fire will gradually be taken over by scrub, then forest. 

The stay in the campground was a privilege!  The grass is kept 'mown' by wallabies, the bird life is plentiful - the 'usual suspects' being currawongs, magpies and ravens. but also the odd satin bowerbird and superb blue wren.  My plan was to walk the tracks adjacent to this camp, which covered the eastern side of the range, then on my way out, do one of the walks on the western side.  However on the day I left it rained so I went to Kumbia, connected up to 240V and stayed for two days, the final morning being awakened by a very good thunderstorm!  The rain subsided mid-morning and I then moved on.

Tree Homicide

The beauty of the Bunya Mountain National Park rainforests also harbours the deadly Strangler Fig, but unlike Drop Bears, this one is only of concern to other trees.  The fruit of this tree is attractive to a range of birds, who, after eating the figs, drop the seeds high into the crowns of other trees.  The seeds sprout and send aerial roots twining down the trunk of the host tree to the ground.  These roots establish themselves and the grim game is on.  The fig sends down more and more roots which ultimately completely encircle and strangle the doomed host tree.  The host tree dies of course, and the Strangler Fig then continues to grow in it's own right, and can become quite massive.  If they are in a more open area, they keep sending roots down and become a large tangle of roots at the base -one huge tree in one park in Brisbane it is a great Hide-and-Seek area for the children.  I failed to see a single Strangler Fig in a Bunya or Hoop Pine, and I must ask the Ranger about this:  They are certainly villains, even attacking their own kind.  Sneaky?  Foul Play?  Part of the "Survival of the fittest" game.  And people picture Mother Nature as some warm, fluffy old duck wrapped in soft cuddly clothes.

And back again in Brisbane

The week at Bargara was very relaxing.  The resort is right on the beach, and a lovely beach it is!  Apparently it is an egg laying area for turtles, so much of it is protected (and rightly so).  Bundaberg is nearby and that is where they make Bundaberg Rum, so a factory tour was certainly on the "Must do" list.  Six million litres of rum are produced each year, 97% of which is consumed in Australia.  They were preparing a special release and our tour group was privileged to see the much more manual intensive bottling process:  The special 1 litre bottles are put onto the line manually, washed & filled as per normal (automatically), and the hand corked & sealed.  The release was going to be in five days hence, and the waiting line had already started!  There are actually Rules for Lining Up!  Collectors are certainly keen!!  We got to sample some rum and I bought a few bottles also.

The Big Barrel, the information centre for Bundaberg Ginger Beer, was also on my list.  It wasn't a factory tour, rather a self guided tour through the Centre describing the history, process etc.  Very interesting, informative but perhaps, having brewed ginger beer in the past, not as enlightening as the rum factory.  

The town of Bargara is a bit out of the way, but is a popular holiday destination as well as a very pleasant place to live.  Being out of the way a bit it was later being 'discovered', but there are a lot of very nice new houses, with the older original ones on the market, most likely to be torn down by a new owner, either for a new modern house or a block of units.  The beachside land is beautifully developed into parklands, with walking tracks, picnic tables and BBQ's for quite some distance.  Very pleasant and much appreciated, judging by the numbers using it.

The daily routine wasn't strenuous by any stretch of the imagination:  Walk along the beach, perhaps a stop for coffee or ice cream, a drive to see the area or washing clothes (real washing machine & dryer!), long shower in the heat of the day and then tea followed by another walk.  I tried fishing but the afternoon winds were quite strong & the beach reasonably shallow so I couldn't get out beyond the breakers, which were quite a way out:  I didn't have to clean any fish either.

The week ended too quickly and the drive to Brisbane on 24 September was an uneventful five hour drive.  To date I've traveled 4328 km since leaving Brisbane on 30 August on this trip, and 7,737 km since leaving Tassie.  The aim was/is to trial the Grey Nomad life and it has been an experience!   Living in a van takes some adapting, it seemed every time I stopped I re-arranged things; yet I still seem to dig deep when I need an item, but less and less.  Power capacity has been greatly improved with the solar panel charging my stand-alone single 105AH deep cycle battery which keeps my laptop running and therefore communication with the world.  I'll be replacing the current house battery - a normal car battery - with two 105AH deep cycle batteries to allow me to free camp longer.  Cooking is pretty basic, mainly to keep washing up to a minimum:  Water isn't so much the problem, rather disposal of grey water.  The people and their rigs vary greatly.   At the top are large motorhomes with all the comforts, some including a car in tow.  A fellow in Gin Gin was getting his converted large bus cleaned up after 6 months free camping in remote areas, to return home again.  Another couple I met sold up, bought a motorhome to live and travel in.  Many have a 4WD with a caravan or campertrailer and go out on trips, returning home for a while to plan the next one.  There are even some traveling on a motorcycle with a trailer.  They all seem to talk about the freedom, some of them find it the best lifestyle for their economic circumstances and they all seem to agree it's a good life!  One fellow told me he and his wife returned after a few months away and he was looking forward to the next trip:  When his wife said she wasn't going anymore, he found another woman and took off again!  There is always someone willing to help if needed and they are a supportive community generally. 

Despite it's penchant for gravel roads & garden paths, the GPS is essential.  Having the Camps6 sites programmed in is terrific as they can be a bit out of the way at times.  For getting around larger towns & cities - essential!  You can quickly find the nearest petrol station, shopping centre, specific shop, Eg Jaycar, even the nearest toilet!  With the advantage of Bluetooth as well, you can be assured of never missing a telemarketer's call.

Now to plan the next rip.